When you start to compare rockshoes there are many models of rock shoes to choose from (even within brands). Whether it is your first purchase or not, deciding on where to start can be confusing.
The following images are from a manufacturer’s website and give you an idea of the range in fittings across their various models.
Shoes are made around a shape, called a last. The shape and volume of this last will have a great impact on the fitting and the intended use of the shoe. The more basic and flatter the last, the more general purpose the application. A flat lasted shoe is not necessarily for beginners - for many climbing angles, a flat lasted shoe will be a great choice.
Here is a photo of the lasts in action at La Sportiva.
One consideration in assessing the shape for your use, is knowing which curve to pick. More radically down-turned shoes are designed for more radically steep climbs. The theory is the shoe will act more like a claw on the holds - the more overhanging the climb, the greater the claw of the shoe. This claw shape helps hook and pull in on holds, when the body position is overhung.
Buying down turned shoes for all-round use does not make sense. In fact, buying down-turned shoes for use on vertical climbs, will dramatically increase the wear on the thinner rand rubber (the outside wall rubber). Wearing rock shoes that are radically or even mildly down-tuned on a vertical routes means the climber must drop the heel to get optimal purchase on the foothold (thus loosing reach and strength) . If you are getting away with what you think is good wear, it is only because you have shoes that have non sticky rand rubber.
Buying down turned shoes for all-round use does not make sense. In fact, buying down-turned shoes for use on vertical climbs, will dramatically increase the wear on the thinner rand rubber (the outside wall rubber). Wearing rock shoes that are radically or even mildly down-tuned on a vertical routes means the climber must drop the heel to get optimal purchase on the foothold (thus loosing reach and strength) . If you are getting away with what you think is good wear, it is only because you have shoes that have non sticky rand rubber.
The next picture shows what happens when the radically down turned shoe is place on a hold when the heel is level with the wall. Clearly it just doesn’t work and will not grip a small edge.
At first glance, some shoes on the market appear very down-turned but at closer inspection will reveal that it is only the arch that is curved. When the shoe is placed on a flat surface, the front sole area sits flat on the ground. Product images on manufacturers websites can often be misleading and shoes are often not that down-turned, at all.
There are some radically down-turned shoes on the market, with other features that over come the need to drop the heel for the best hold purchase. The fit of the shoes can also affect the scenario, as do the different rubbers.
There are some radically down-turned shoes on the market, with other features that over come the need to drop the heel for the best hold purchase. The fit of the shoes can also affect the scenario, as do the different rubbers.
See this link for the more detail associated with rockshoe pictures at the top of the page. http://www.rockpillars.cz/en/catalogue/last-types.html
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