Monday, August 16, 2010



BJR Climbing Equipment GRAND OPENING competition
Go to:www.bigjohn.com.au

  • Find the text "Big John" hidden in the descriptions (not the product name) of 6 product items in the on-line store.
  • You must find all six locations.
  • Email the six locations of the text "Big John" to bigjohn@bigjohn.com.au
  • Prizes will be awarded from the most expensive RRP, downwards - that is, the Sterling VR10 rope will be awarded as first prize, followed by the Black Diamond prize, the Petzl prize and so on.
  • Emails are received by us in time order. Awards will be allocated, based on the order of correct entries received.
  • You can only enter once. You cannot win more than one prize. There are six prizes for six winners.
  • Winners will be announced here and on our Facebook page.
  • Prizes will be shipped/delivered free of charge. Include your contact details with your entry.
  • Good luck
WINNERS at 3.10pm (est) 17th Aug
Sterling VR10 rope - Jacquie Tinkler
Black Diamond Hotwire quickdraw set of 6 - Dave Tomlinson
Petzl Meteor 111A71 Orange - John Thirlwell
Mad Rock Conflicts - Phil Ward
Revolution Commando Pad 2009 - Rob Williams
Nicros V10 - David Chiew

Pictured below Dave and Ned - keen as, picking up BD quickdraws moments after winning.




Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Mudhead's Slippers


Remember if you lend someone your shoes their different foot shape might distort yours.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Tailored for Mudhead

There a many little things we can do to improve or change your rockshoes. For example - if one shoe is a little tight or you have broken in your new shoes and they are still a little stiff for your liking, visit our workshop in person and we might have a solution. It is best to visit Monday to Thursday or you can call and see if a repairer is in on Saturday morning.

These little modifications like "rock shoe tuning" are usually completed while you wait.




Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Rock shoe tuning

Rock shoe tuning – what is it all about?

Often I here climbers prophesying about what enhances climbing performance - climbing shoes, conditions, diet, etc. In over 20 years of repairing climbing shoes, I have only known a handful of climbers that even considered maintaining their rock climbing shoes for increased performance and wear - these were mostly climbers I have lived with and worked with.

Your shoes will assist you up a free climb. All other equipment is not really performance enhancing, it functions as the safety net. Maintaining your rock climbing shoes is worthwhile and easy.

What is maintaining your climbing shoes?

Apart from general maintenance, which I will detail in a later blog, it is the condition of your rubber that can make a huge difference to how your shoes perform and last.

In a nutshell, when you climb your sole rubber deforms/depresses around the rock grains. One measure of a rubbers durability is its ability to rebound or spring back to shape from this. The quicker the rubber rebounds, the better. Inevitability the rubber will drag, tear and wear leaving scalloping - see below photo. Scalloping is the resulting wear marks on the rubber, which if left unattended, results in poor friction and accelerated rubber wear – sometimes described as rolling when it is occuring. This damage can be seen on the rand rubber* but, more commonly on the soles. Super sticky rubbers are more prone as they are softer. Coarse rock or twisting on plastic holds also increases this type of wear.

This photo shows typically worn rubber - scalloping on both sole and rand

Nearly 100% of all repairs we get show scalloping. BJR has estimated that the life of a shoe can be prolonged up to 35% by periodic removal of scalloping. Removing this damaged rubber is easy for an expert using super fine sand paper – removing this damaged rubber will make your shoes last longer and perform better. It is what I call “Rock shoe tuning” and it is a free service available at BJR.

Shoe before tuning

The same shoe after tuning

The performance difference to your shoes will be immediately noticeable - better friction and edging. Competition climbers that have had one shoe tuned in this way and commented on the massive difference between the tuned and unturned shoe.

Before you try to tick your next project, check your climbing shoes are tuned to the task.

Rand rubber* the thin side wall rubber of a climbing shoe.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Cartoon Series


This is the first in a series of cartoons we ran at Big John's Retreads in the early 90's.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Under the Hood – FIVE TEN Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco

Under the Hood, is a review of the features behind the rubber sole at the business end of your shoes - the front half of the sole, which contacts with the rock – this is normally, the resoled area.



The 5.10 Blanco is the first rock shoe in my workshop, since starting my blog, which has something noteworthy, under the hood. The reality is that most rock shoes are not very worked under the hood – which is a pity.

The Blanco has the regular Anasazi midsole, with an extra cut out made from the same material, stuck over the regular midsole. This sits under all the toe pads. The photo below shows the outline of the inside edge of the extra cut out piece, as highlighted by the border shaded with red. The outside edge tracks the outline of the sole, by a few millimeters. This feature gives extra support for edging under the toes. The regular Anasazi may soften over time and lose it’s edging power - the Blanco will not. Even if you have strong toes (ie. you’re a gun) the Blanco will be a great choice for very small edges and on just-off to just-over vertical walls (when all your weight is on your feet).



I first noticed this cut out under the toes in the 5.10 Zipper - the most underrated rock shoe of its time. A lot of climbers thought it was gimmicky and “just a zipper”. The reality is that this shoe was one of the most pimped up ‘Under the Hood’ shoes I have ever seen - the cut out was just one of its many features – 10 out of 10 for bouldering.

A popular comment by pink Anasazi owners (that cannot let go) is that the Blanco’s are too stiff. They are stiffer under toes but after you have taught the rubber to bend, they will loosen up behind the toes and deliver sensitivity. The extra midsole cutout under the toes (when the shoes are broken in) should actually accentuate the shoes ability to claw down on holds on steeper terrain, as long as your fitting is not over tight.

If you buy this model, as over tight as your other Anasazis, they will be stiffer for longer as there is more midsole material to breakdown. Synthetic uppers do not stretch like leather uppers and I would recommend buy the Blanco to fit neat (as 5.10 recommends with all their synthetic uppered shoes) and reap the rewards of what should be a great dime edging shoe with sensitivity.



Saturday, March 6, 2010

Hello world


Those of you that know me, realise that I can talk for forever about rock climbing shoes – now I am blogging it. Generally speaking, I do not like to express my opinions. I mostly prefer to give a perspective that will encourage more thought – if I write something you do not like, please keep this mind.

My intention is to blog about a range of climbing topics, but I will probably commentate a lot about rock climbing shoes.

For a free climber, rock climbing shoes (and chalk) are the only pieces of gear that will actually increase your physically ability to climb rock. All the other gear is fluff. Sure it may save your life if you fall off, but you don’t really need it, if you can hang on. If you have remembered your shoes, you are ready to climb.

Are shoes really the difference? It is sad when climbers blame their shoes for being weak. Harden up.

Check out Wolfgang’s shoes – definitely not downturned.