Picking the Best Curve

When you start to compare rockshoes there are many models of rock shoes to choose from (even within brands). Whether it is your first purchase or not, deciding on where to start can be confusing.

The following images are from a manufacturer’s website and give you an idea of the range in fittings across their various models. 

 

Shoes are made around a shape, called a last. The shape and volume of this last will have a great impact on the fitting and the intended use of the shoe. The more basic and flatter the last, the more general purpose the application. A flat lasted shoe is not necessarily for beginners - for many climbing angles, a flat lasted shoe will be a great choice.

Here is a photo of the lasts in action at La Sportiva.

One consideration in assessing the shape for your use, is knowing which curve to pick. More radically down-turned shoes are designed for more radically steep climbs. The theory is the shoe will act more like a claw on the holds - the more overhanging the climb, the greater the claw of the shoe. This claw shape helps hook and pull in on holds, when the body position is overhung.

Buying down turned shoes for all-round use does not make sense. In fact, buying down-turned shoes for use on vertical climbs, will dramatically increase the wear on the thinner rand rubber (the outside wall rubber).  Wearing rock shoes that are radically or even mildly down-tuned on a vertical routes means the climber must drop the heel to get optimal purchase on the foothold (thus loosing reach and strength) . If you are getting away with what you think is good wear, it is only because you have shoes that have non sticky rand rubber.

The following 2 images illustrate that the more radically down turned the shoe, the more suitable the shoe may be for steeper climbs and vice versa.

  

The next picture shows what happens when the radically down turned shoe is place on a hold when the heel is level with the wall. Clearly it just doesn’t work and will not grip a small edge.

At first glance, some shoes on the market appear very down-turned but at closer inspection will reveal that it is only the arch that is curved. When the shoe is placed on a flat surface, the front sole area sits flat on the ground. Product images on manufacturers websites can often be misleading and shoes are often not that down-turned, at all. 

There are some radically down-turned shoes on the market, with other features that over come the need to drop the heel for the best hold purchase. The fit of the shoes can also affect the scenario, as do the different rubbers. 

See this link for the more detail associated with rockshoe pictures at the top of the page. http://www.rockpillars.cz/en/catalogue/last-types.html

The freshen up.

BJR Climbing Equipment GRAND OPENING competition
Go to:www.bigjohn.com.au

• Find the text "Big John" hidden in the descriptions (not the product name) of 6 product items in the on-line store.
• You must find all six locations.
  
• Email the six locations of the text "Big John" to bigjohn@bigjohn.com.au
• Prizes will be awarded from the most expensive RRP, downwards - that is, the Sterling VR10 rope will be awarded as first prize, followed by the Black Diamond prize, the Petzl prize and so on.
• Emails are received by us in time order. Awards will be allocated, based on the order of correct entries received.
  
• You can only enter once. You cannot win more than one prize. There are six prizes for six winners.
• Winners will be announced here and on our Facebook page.
• Prizes will be shipped/delivered free of charge. Include your contact details with your entry.
• Good luck

WINNERS at 3.10pm (est) 17th Aug
Sterling VR10 rope - Jacquie Tinkler
Black Diamond Hotwire quickdraw set of 6 - Dave Tomlinson
Petzl Meteor 111A71 Orange - John Thirlwell
Mad Rock Conflicts - Phil Ward
Revolution Commando Pad 2009 - Rob Williams
Nicros V10 - David Chiew

Pictured below Dave and Ned - keen as, picking up BD quickdraws moments after winning.

Mudhead's Slippers

Remember if you lend someone your shoes their different foot shape might distort yours.

Tailored for Mudhead

There a many little things we can do to improve or change your rockshoes. For example - if one shoe is a little tight or you have broken in your new shoes and they are still a little stiff for your liking, visit our workshop in person and we might have a solution. It is best to visit Monday to Thursday or you can call and see if a repairer is in on Saturday morning.

These little modifications like "rock shoe tuning" are usually completed while you wait.

Rock shoe tuning

Rock shoe tuning – what is it all about?

Often I here climbers prophesying about what enhances climbing performance - climbing shoes, conditions, diet, etc. In over 20 years of repairing climbing shoes, I have only known a handful of climbers that even considered maintaining their rock climbing shoes for increased performance and wear - these were mostly climbers I have lived with and worked with.

Your shoes will assist you up a free climb. All other equipment is not really performance enhancing, it functions as the safety net. Maintaining your rock climbing shoes is worthwhile and easy.

What is maintaining your climbing shoes?

Apart from general maintenance, which I will detail in a later blog, it is the condition of your rubber that can make a huge difference to how your shoes perform and last.

In a nutshell, when you climb your sole rubber deforms/depresses around the rock grains. One measure of a rubbers durability is its ability to rebound or spring back to shape from this. The quicker the rubber rebounds, the better. Inevitability the rubber will drag, tear and wear leaving scalloping - see below photo. Scalloping is the resulting wear marks on the rubber, which if left unattended, results in poor friction and accelerated rubber wear – sometimes described as rolling when it is occuring. This damage can be seen on the rand rubber* but, more commonly on the soles. Super sticky rubbers are more prone as they are softer. Coarse rock or twisting on plastic holds also increases this type of wear.

This photo shows typically worn rubber - scalloping on both sole and rand

Nearly 100% of all repairs we get show scalloping. BJR has estimated that the life of a shoe can be prolonged up to 35% by periodic removal of scalloping. Removing this damaged rubber is easy for an expert using super fine sand paper – removing this damaged rubber will make your shoes last longer and perform better. It is what I call “Rock shoe tuning” and it is a free service available at BJR.

Shoe before tuning

The same shoe after tuning

The performance difference to your shoes will be immediately noticeable - better friction and edging. Competition climbers that have had one shoe tuned in this way and commented on the massive difference between the tuned and unturned shoe.

Before you try to tick your next project, check your climbing shoes are tuned to the task.

Rand rubber* the thin side wall rubber of a climbing shoe.

Cartoon Series

This is the first in a series of cartoons we ran at Big John's Retreads in the early 90's.